Hong Kong K11 Musea Exhibition Witnesses Western Fashion and Chinese Crafts | Exhibition | Value | Art News

2021-12-20 06:05:00 By : Ms. Sofia Wu

East and west. Fashion and art. Designers and craftsmen. past and present.

These words describe K11 Musea's Savoir-Faire: The Mastery of Craft in Fashion exhibition. It showcased a series of fashion designs from 22 world-renowned fashion houses - including Alexander McQueen, Celine, Chanel, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Iris van Herpen, Loewe, Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, Schiaparelli and Tom Ford - and 12 Works from K11 Craft & Guild Foundation (KCG) are exhibited together with pieces of Chinese artworks. The foundation was founded by Zheng Zhigang in 2018 and is a registered art and cultural charity organization in Hong Kong. KCG protects and restores Chinese handicrafts that are rapidly disappearing.

This conversation between fashion and art is the creation of Mr. Zheng Zhigang, the president of New World Development who owns K11 Musea; and Carine Roitfeld, the former editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris.

The exhibition is divided into five parts-Atelier Tailleur, Bridal Couture, Modern Reinvention, Extreme Craft and Tales from the Runway. This fashion show celebrates 30 years of iconic fashion design combined with 700 years of Chinese craftsmanship.

Finally, Artisan Lounge offers five themed drinks-to match each exhibition section. 

A glorious porcelain plate 

This room is displayed in a black Parisian salon, focusing on the mastery of the tailoring workshop behind each fashion house-from the meticulous production of Saint Laurent's purple jackets to Chanel's classic tweed suits. In addition to the two designers, there are works by Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier and Mugler. 

Here, you can find the beginning of cross-cultural innovation, divided into two waves of exploration: the evolution of women's clothing in recent decades, and the comparison and contrast between the cross-cultural exchanges between the East and the West in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), forming an intricate Guangcai porcelain .

Take this pair of Guangcai porcelain plates as an example-a blue chrysanthemum pattern. 

This piece of modern art combines old patterns and new techniques. Luster is a fusion of multicolored (multicolored), a style of decorating Chinese porcelain; and famille rose with Western influence. 

Each petal tells the artist's novel composition, the bright chrysanthemums like fireworks in the night sky. The jack pattern on the blue background is very rare, further demonstrating the craftsman's craftsmanship.

This chrysanthemum pattern represents the four gentlemen in Chinese art and tradition-integrity, purity, humility and perseverance. 

A pair of gilded chrysanthemum glorious porcelain plates

Close up of floral pattern

The wedding day is an important day full of symbolism.

In the West, the bride wore stunning haute couture on her big day and became the focus of everyone's attention. Designers of this theme include Atelier Versace, Chanel, Givenchy, Mugler, Oscar de la Renta and Valentino. Each offers the perfect ideal of intimacy—whether it is made of silk, feathers, gauze, and beads—intertwined with Eastern rivals. 

In the East, a wedding is to show social status, display wealth, and obtain permission from parents and elders—expressed through elaborate precious gifts or ceremonial tea sets.

A Baibaoqianqi child playing with a two-door wardrobe (upper left)

Two-door wardrobe with Baibao Qianqi children's play theme (upper right part)

An item that represents the importance of marriage is an elaborate wardrobe with a long history.

Baibaoqian craftsmanship can be traced back to the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) more than 400 years ago. It refers to intricate wood inlay works composed of semi-precious materials such as jade, mother-of-pearl, and amber. 

The theme of childlike fun originated in the Song Dynasty (960-1279 AD), representing a colorful desire for family life and many happy springs. 

There are similar cabinets in the Palace Museum in Beijing. The museum claims that its craftsmanship is rare among the existing Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) lacquer furniture.

Inspired by history, designers continue to put forward new renovation plans-to raise the design and craftsmanship to a new level.

This fusion of old and new is most prominent in Chanel’s iconic tweed jacket. Richard Quinn’s outfit is reminiscent of medieval fashion, and Alice Van Hepburn’s polished black dress is reminiscent of Victorian dresses. In addition to these three designers, works by Balenciaga, Loewe and Schiaparelli were also exhibited. 

KCG brought three antiques spanning nearly 500 years-showing different interpretations of Luodian traditional craftsmanship in different periods.

In the 13th to 14th centuries, China produced a Luodian lacquered round box with a character scene. The cover is inlaid with a pavilion on the top of the mountain, against the backdrop of the pine trees, the composition is clever. There are very few box-shaped antiquities in the Yuan Dynasty (1279-1368) that have been preserved, and most of them are square rather than round, requiring high craftsmanship. 

Luodian lacquer round box with character scene 

 The four-drawer chest from the 17th to the 18th centuries is inlaid with a Bo Luo shop, indicating that this work originated in Yangzhou, a city famous for this artistic Bo Luo shop craftsmanship. The three side panels are painted with "Qinqi Calligraphy and Calligraphy", "Qinqi Calligraphy and Calligraphy", "Calligraphy and Calligraphy, Calligraphy and Calligraphy" and "Four Arts" patterns respectively. The top of the cabinet is painted with a picture of children playing, implying auspicious marriage, inheriting thousands of children and grandchildren, and entrusting children to become talents. 

Another piece of art—a pair of carved Luodian octagonal boxes—is assembled from a gilded frame. This design is very common in Cantonese ivory carving, but it is rare in shells. In the 1760s, the British invented Spinning Jenny, a multi-axis machine during the first industrial revolution in Europe. Judging from the fact that these work boxes were exported from Guangzhou 13th Factory, these work boxes are believed to be manufactured around the 1760s.  

Luodian Lacquerware Four Art Thousand Miles Bookcase 

A pair of octagonal carved boxes in Luodian

A pair of octagonal carved boxes in Luodian

(From left to right): Valentino, 2018 spring and summer fashion; Celine, spring 2019; Matty Bovan, fall 2021 

Through the mirrored walls, the viewer seems to be in the dreamlike design and hand-painted illustrations, immersed in the immersive world of art and fashion. 

Creativity is unlimited and can come from different types of concepts. From Tim Burton's vision to sci-fi fantasy, these works reflect a transformational and abstract journey. Designers appearing in this theme are Celine, Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Matti Bowen, Richard Quinn and Valentino. 

The Guangcai Porcelain Wardrobe Island in Tao Yuanming's Poem "Peach Blossom Spring"

The left part of the wardrobe 

Guangcai Wardrobe Island is another highlight. Its paintings tell the story of the famous Chinese prose poem "Peach Blossom Spring". The author of this poem is Tao Yuanming, a Chinese poet and politician from the 4th to 5th century AD.

This is described in contemporary versions of famous poems. Modern people have found Utopia in the beautiful landscape and the joy of hidden villages. It is full of different animals, people of all ages, majestic houses, fertile fields, mulberry trees and ponds.  

Generally speaking, these works are the vehicles for displaying the designer's manifesto-they become the canvas for the designer to describe the creative vision. Here, through various materials in different cultures, great handicrafts are expressed in many ways. 

The central part of the wardrobe 

The right part of the wardrobe 

Plaster lion replica and Viktor & Rolf dress, spring 2019 fashion

Tom Van Der Borght, Fall 2020

Tom Van Der Borght, Fall 2020

This section shows how designers break through the boundaries of beauty and material use when creating miraculous works.

Visitors can appreciate the level of craftsmanship, patience and dedication required to make each masterpiece—the originality of designers or craftsmen in expressing their vision and aesthetics in the use of multifunctional everyday materials, natural fabrics or the latest man-made materials. 

One of the highlights is Viktor & Rolf's dresses, which are part of the Dutch brand's spring 2019 collection called "Fashion Statement". These luxurious dresses are printed with slogans such as "Please do not take pictures", "I am my own muse" and "Less is more". Alexander McQueen, Givenchy, Paco Rabanne, Tom Ford and Tom Van Der Borght also appear in this theme. 

Plaster model lion replica 

The richly layered plaster-shaped lion further emphasizes the level of craftsmanship-this is a replica of the intricately decorated roof of the Chen's Ancestral Hall in Guangzhou, southern China.

The main hall was built in the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty at the end of 1894 (1875-1908). It is the largest of its kind in Guangdong Province and is famous for its well-preserved, colorful and exquisitely crafted Lingnan traditional architectural style. 

Its roof is decorated with nearly 30 gypsum lions, symbolizing respect for and influence on Chinese culture. The lion decoration on the roof represents the high expectations of the patriarch for future generations-to bring honor to the family and climb the social ladder. 

But lions are not just for decorating the roof ridges—they have practical uses. Due to the materials used-such as plaster, paper, straw, brown sugar and glutinous rice flour; the plaster molding structure can improve circulation by raising hot air and keeping the room cool. In extreme weather, they were able to stabilize the roof by stacking tiles tightly underneath to withstand severe storms.  

On December 13, the opening party of the exhibition was held in front of the dazzling night scene of Hong Kong Island. Dinner guests such as Wesley Ng (founder and CEO of Casetify) and Stephanie Au (four-time Olympian from Hong Kong) participated in a silent auction supported by Open Heart. It features works carefully selected by fashion houses and traditional craftsmen in collaboration with KCG, and will remain available for public viewing until mid-January 2022. 

Ruinart Champagne x Glorious Painted Leather is called the "Five Balances", inspired by a tiger that traverses five elements-mountain (brave), air (relief), bamboo (combination of work and rest), water (a state of peace and comfort) He Huo (must undergo psychological and physical training). Each skin represents the different encounters that life may bring to us and the state of the tiger. 

The proceeds from auction items will help UNESCO and KCG to further carry out global cultural protection work.

To further complete the journey of Savoir-Faire: The Mastery of Craft in Fashion, Artisan Lounge and Fok Hing Gin have launched five themed cocktails. Fok Hing Gin is a British distilled liquor brand named after the streets of Hong Kong.

Fok Hing Gin deeply explored the fusion of Chinese and British tea drinking culture, adding jasmine green tea and herbs to the formula. Each cocktail is specially prepared for each dedicated themed room of the exhibition:

(From left to right): Flora & Forest, Fairy, Delicate Craft, The Bold Step and The Red Glow

Hualin (left) and exquisite craftsmanship (right)

K11 Craft & Guild Foundation (KCG) is a Hong Kong registered art and cultural charity organization. It protects and restores the rapidly disappearing Chinese handicrafts to create a craft ecosystem. Creating Shared Value (CSV) through integration, bringing handicrafts, businesses and society together; the foundation makes it easier for communities to access handicrafts, educates the public through research programs, and collaborates with artisans to bridge the gap between culture and economy .

Exhibition name: Savoir-Faire: The Master of Craft in Fashion

Location: K11 Art and Culture Center, K11 Musea 6th Floor

Address: Victoria Pier, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Time: Daily 12:00nn – 8:00pm (last session 7pm)

Book through the K11 Musea website

Location: K11 Musea, 008 & 008A, G/F Special cocktails: HK$158 per glass